Bulk Leather Leaf
- Advance Notice: 1 WEEK
- One bunch of Leather Fern includes 20 stems.
About Bulk Leather Leaf
Leather leaf Fern, also known as Rumohra Adiantiformis, is a hardy, excellent, easy, and low-maintenance fern that is suitable for relatively small spaces. Ferns are also good air purifier houseplants that do exceptionally well in an indoor environment with low levels of light. The ability of ferns to adapt and reproduce on their own has allowed them to survive since prehistoric times and ensures that they will continue to do so even in the harshest of environments. Ferns are wonderful plants for providing shade. Ferns are plants with foliage that grow quickly and don’t care much about whether they are fed, get enough light, or whether the temperature is too high or too low.
Temperature and the Amount of Light
Because leatherleaf ferns cannot withstand temperatures lower than 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you should not plant them in the open air if there is even the slightest possibility that temperatures could drop below that threshold in your region. Even though the plants can thrive at room temperature when grown indoors, their optimal environment is one that is slightly cooler. When grown outside, leatherleaf ferns do best in partial to complete shade; however, they can thrive indoors in bright, indirect light. Never attempt to cultivate these ferns in full sunlight.
The Land and the Water
Even though leatherleaf ferns have a moderate tolerance for drought, you still shouldn’t let them become completely dry out. It is important to water the ferns so that they have a constant, low level of moisture even during times of drought. The occasional rains that fall during the seasons when it is cooler should be sufficient. Never water leatherleaf ferns with salty water or water that has a high mineral concentration, as these conditions are toxic to the plants and will kill them. The leatherleaf fern can thrive in sandy, loamy, or clay soil, but it grows best in acidic conditions.
How to make leather leaf earrings?
Step 1: Taking a Piece of Leather and Cutting It
I am new to working with leather, but I decided to dive in headfirst by purchasing some large leather hides, which can be difficult to work with when you are only working on a modest-sized project. I made the decision to remove a very small portion. I really only needed a piece that was about 3 inches by 3 inches, but I cut one that was larger so that I would have some extra material in case I made a mistake.
Step 2: Creating the Shapes of the Leaves
When I first made these earrings, they looked like this. I just eyeballed the cutting, but I figured that other people might find it more helpful to have a template to follow. After digitally tracing my prototype, I created the template that is attached here. On paper measuring 8.5 inches by 11 inches, it should print out correctly.
By utilising an x-acto knife, I was able to remove the shape from the template. I traced the shape onto the leather using the template, which helped me get an accurate result. After that, I repeated this process to make two separate leaves.
Step 3: Carving the Veins in the Skin
I used a tool that was included in my leather kit and was referred to as a “leather glue tool” so that I could carve the vein details. It appeared to have a sharpened edge, and it brought to mind other leather caving tools that I have seen in the past. But if you have a knife that can rotate 360 degrees, now is the perfect time to use it!
I started by using a damp rag to moisten the leather. I had heard that getting the material too wet makes for a less than optimal carving experience, so I made sure that the leather did not become completely soaked.
After that, I used the instrument to carve a line down the middle of it. After that, I used a carving tool to remove veins that extended from the base to the surface. I placed 5 on each of the sides.
Step 4: Taking Care of the Fringe
Following the completion of the drying process for the leather, I decided to treat the edge. I began by sanding the edge to remove any sharp protrusions and rough spots. When you sand the edge of a piece of leather, it can cause the leather to mushroom.
A tool called an edge beveler was what I used to combat the mushroom effect. If you do not have an edge beveler tool, you can simply round over the edges by sanding them more, but in my experience, this takes a longer amount of time.
After that, I applied some gum tragacanth to the edge, and using my slicking tool, I burnished it to a smooth finish. Depending on how you like things, you could also use tokinol or beeswax instead.
Step 5: Putting the Leather to Death
I made the decision to colour the leather. I really wish I had some more exciting colours like red or green, but the only dye I have is black and a very dark brown. In the instructions for my dye, it says to apply it with a foam brush and then wait for it to dry. Any areas that are streaky or missing paint can have subsequent coats applied. However, you need to follow the instructions that come with your leather dye.
A piece as small as this one can be difficult to hold when you are dying it, so keep that in mind. I use an ice pick because the tip of the pick is very thin and does not leave a noticeable mark in the dye when it is used.
Step 6: The First Steps of Making the Mold
I decided to wet mould the leather in order to give the leaf the appearance of having three dimensions. I used a piece of scrap wood that was about four inches long and drilled two holes that were half an inch apart into it. It is essential that you check that the holes are not overlapping one another, despite the fact that they are very close together.
Although I used a forstner bit, I believe that a conventional bit would have been a better choice.
Step 7: The Second Part of Making the Mold
I used my band saw on the piece of wood that already had two holes in it. I made a line in such a way that it divided the hole in half. This task could also be accomplished with a handsaw in the event that you do not have access to a bandsaw.
After that, I cut some half “dowel to a length that is roughly equivalent to that of the mould. These will be incorporated into the fifty-fifty “the leaf shape will be made using the holes in the mould, which will be used to make the shape.
sanding the mould to smooth off any rough edges is a good idea if you want the best possible results from using the mould.
Step 8: Wet Forming
The process of wet forming begins with wetting the leather as the first step. After soaking the leather in water and keeping an eye on it, I noticed that it became significantly more flexible. It took about sixty to ninety seconds, but the time it took could be shorter or longer depending on the leather.
Dowels were inserted into one side of the mould, which I obtained from the step before this one. After that, I brought the line that had been formed between the two dowels into alignment with the centre vein that was in the lead. I then placed the top of the mould back on and secured it with clamps. I didn’t clamp it down too tightly—just enough to get the basic shape of the mould onto the object. If the clamp is applied with too much pressure, the leather will take on all of the textured patterns of the wood.
Step 9: Adding Holes
After removing the leather from the mould, I proceeded to punch some holes into it using my hole punch. I adjusted the punch to a setting of 2 millimetres so that I could add two holes to the top of the lead. They are situated in the middle of the leather, exactly halfway between the central vein and the edge of the material.
Step 10: Putting the Earring and Jump Ring Together
It was necessary for me to moisten the tip of the leather before I could add the jump ring. After that, I was able to bring it together by pinching it and thread the jump ring through the holes. Before putting the finishing touches on it, I attached the earring hook. After that, I utilised some pliers in order to secure the jump rings.
If you don’t have jewellery pliers, you can prevent your regular pliers from scratching the jump rings by taping over the cutting edges of the pliers.
Step 11: Providing the Present
The most satisfying aspect of giving someone a gift is watching them enjoy it, and since you are the recipient of my creation, I get to experience that joy alongside you. You can watch the video at the top of the page to see how my wife reacted in real time, or you can simply enjoy the snapshot I took of her expression. Putting these together was a really enjoyable project, and I sincerely hope that you had as much fun with it as I did.